Where is that famous French snobbery?

18h France time

The French don't always seem to be particularly joyful, and the paperwork here can be excessive. But you know, I have found the people of Limoges to be really hospitable and warm. And I love dealing with people who work in shops and the like; they are always incredibly helpful and honest. I'm almost shocked at how not difficult people make things for me sometimes. For example, the other day I went to the Office of Immigration to pick up some stickers (literally) for my passport. The OFFI had taken a long time to contact me, but I didn't expect them to be very quick. When I was at the office, the woman I talked to (who bears a striking resemblance to Cruella de Vil) asked me to show the letter I had received from the OFFI telling me to stop by. I had forgotten it, and was about to resign myself to coming back another day. She stopped me and said, "No, I probably still have your letter here in our system." I was stunned as she looked through files on her computer, pulling up my letter and telling an intern that was seated beside her that this way, the "mademoiselle would not have to return home." Before I came to France, I was told to expect to be turned away, that French civil servants would not make things easy for me. Maybe it's just Limoges. I've heard (from French people I've met here) that people are snobbier elsewhere.

Salespeople in stores also try to do what's best for their customers. I was about to pick up some tights from my favorite girly French clothing store, and I asked the girl behind the counter if she thought they would fit. She came around the counter, looked me up and down while saying she needed to get a feel for my height (I'm tall here), then told me not to buy them because they were probably too short. Thank you, Camaieu girl, for saving me 8 euros. People working in stores in Limoges are always willing to give opinions, and they rarely rush, even when lines get a bit long.

And the woman at the boulangerie near me asked me if I wanted "the usual" the other day when I popped by for a baguette. Then she asked me if I had liked the cookies I had bought the week before. These people are all so pleasant!

A week ago I went to this sort of language exchange program for the second time. I dragged a couple of English-speaking friends along with me, and it's a good thing I did. This time, about twenty (if not more) French students had shown up to chat with the four English speakers who arrived. They were swarming us, they were so eager to speak English. I was totally giddy. And then they fed us desserts they had brought and taught us how to play a very enjoyable French game: Loup-garou ("Werewolf"). It was a sort of "Murder in the dark" game, and we played it once in French and once in English. They want to get together again at the end of the month, but I wish we'd organize these events all the time! I had tons of fun. And I'm all for a slew of free French friends.

I chatted with a teacher the other week about how he was supposedly supposed to do a "stage," an internship, in the spring. He told me that he had to learn about art history, because starting next year, primary schools (or maybe just my school) want art history classes for their ten-year-olds. Amazing. And, on the subject of teachers, they already want to strike. I'm not sure if they will all strike; I've only heard teachers say so far that they don't want to participate. But someone distributed newsletters to all of the schools that say "Strike on November 24th!" and list reasons that the teachers of the area should unite against... I'm not sure whom. Possibly the school district administration.

I started up work last Thursday and am feeling really good about teaching today. I've had a couple of classes turn into horrible (but funny) messes, yet I feel undeterred. One of my friends pointed out that teaching is a lot of trial and error. And it's a challenge, but a good one. I'm enjoying myself.

Yesterday was Armistice Day, the end of World War I, and most of France had the day off. Apparently, the U.K. doesn't even take off for Armistice Day, which shows how big and terrible a part of French history the first World War was. Or maybe it just shows how much the French like holidays, which they do. I found out today there was a ceremony for it very close to my apartment, and I missed it! I'll have to keep up on those ceremonies and commemorations.

I want to eat a French pastry. (I have a new one pretty much every day. I should start up a pastry journal.)